Low beam - inside car
High beam - inside car
Low beams - outside the car
Monday, January 21, 2008
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Review: XPEL Yellow 30mil Protection Film for Honda Fit Fog Light
I purchased a 4"x8" sheet of XPEL yellow H9906-YLW headlight protection film. I believe the price was around $10 shipped. That is enough to cover the two fog light lenses. I removed the fog light, made a template pf the fog light lens (make sure you leave a little gap at the end of the lens on the fogs so the heat generated by the bulb can escape off the lens), cut the XPEL with the template, and then cleaned the fog light lenses with some alcohol and sticked the XPEL film on them. I left them alone for a night and then turned them on in the morning. Done!
They don't output as yellow as I would have wanted, but it looks nicer now when the fogs are not on and I know the fog light lenses are protected from rocks and other crap that might damage them.
They don't output as yellow as I would have wanted, but it looks nicer now when the fogs are not on and I know the fog light lenses are protected from rocks and other crap that might damage them.
Review: Skunk2 Short Shift Kit for Honda Fit
For less than $40, I bought this Skunk2 Short Shift kit on eBay. The Skunk2 Part# is 628-05-0200. It's a really simple kit. The kit is made up of, four longer bolts, 4 washers, 4 metal shifter bushings, 1 shifter extension and 3 little set screws. What it does it shortens the shifts by raising the actually shifter assembly up and making the shifter longer to compensate for raising the shifter assembly. Here are some pictures to give you a better idea of how it works and what it looks like.
Here's a picture of what it looks like once installed minus the bolts connecting the shifter assembly to the chassis. So you use your stock shifter and add that little extension piece to compensate for raising the shifter assembly up with the new metal bushings.
This Skunk2 Short Shift kit is worth the money. It makes the shifts more nice and crisp and its not very notchy like some short shifters that I have used before. It pretty much just makes your shifts noticeably shorter and makes them more solid. The installation is also pretty easy. I followed Skunk2's installation instructions and it took me about 30-40 minutes. Just makes ure you use some red loctite on those set screws so they dont come loose. I also recommend some white lithium type grease for the regreasing the little shifter extension to go back into the plastic holder on the shifter cable.
I may stick a DIY for this here. I have pictures that I took of the install, but I think once you get the Skunk2's installation instructions it was pretty self explanatory.
Here's a picture of what it looks like once installed minus the bolts connecting the shifter assembly to the chassis. So you use your stock shifter and add that little extension piece to compensate for raising the shifter assembly up with the new metal bushings.
This Skunk2 Short Shift kit is worth the money. It makes the shifts more nice and crisp and its not very notchy like some short shifters that I have used before. It pretty much just makes your shifts noticeably shorter and makes them more solid. The installation is also pretty easy. I followed Skunk2's installation instructions and it took me about 30-40 minutes. Just makes ure you use some red loctite on those set screws so they dont come loose. I also recommend some white lithium type grease for the regreasing the little shifter extension to go back into the plastic holder on the shifter cable.
I may stick a DIY for this here. I have pictures that I took of the install, but I think once you get the Skunk2's installation instructions it was pretty self explanatory.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
DIY: Honda Fit HID Retrofit with FX35 Projectors
DIY: Disclaimer
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I'll just put up the parts that are needed since someone on Honda-Tech.com asked for them. I'll add the rest of the info with pictures later. Cheers!
HID Retrofit Parts List
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I'll just put up the parts that are needed since someone on Honda-Tech.com asked for them. I'll add the rest of the info with pictures later. Cheers!
HID Retrofit Parts List
- 1 x pair of Honda Fit headlights
$360 brand new from Honda - 1 x pair of FX35 projectors (preferably clear lens for a super sharp cutoff)
$70 used from eBay (frosted) - 2 x small Dog Bowls for the shrouds
$10 brand new from Petsmart - 6 x 2" screws that fits the FX35 projectors
less than $10 for all brand new screws, washers, lock washers, and nuts - 12 x flat washers
- 12 x lock washers
- 12 x nuts
- Duplicolor Semi-Gloss High Heat spray paint or whatever color you want the headlights painted
$5 brand new from NAPA - Duplicolor BondAid spray paint to help the paint stick
$5 brand new from NAPA - 1 x roll of sponge tape to fit the dog bowls on
$5 brand new from NAPA - 1 x butyl sealant to seal back the headlights properly
$25 brand new from Nissan Dealer (you should be able to get this from any autoparts store for less called window sealant made out of butyl; I have not tried this so I can't guarantee that it is 100% the same)
I think those are all the parts you need to do the retrofit. For tools and such, you will need a screw driver, small wrench, dremel hardware, sand paper, painting space, and etc of course. I'll go into more details soon.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Pictures: FX35 Bi-Xenon HID Retrofit on Honda Fit
Front View.
HID's on with 5000K bulbs.
Close up of shroud and projector while on.
Close up of the semi-gloss black paint job.
HID's on with 5000K bulbs.
Close up of shroud and projector while on.
Close up of the semi-gloss black paint job.
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Review: My FX35 Bi-Xenon HID Retroft for the Honda Fit
I had a lot of fun learning about retrofitting and making it happen. It took me a while to get all the parts and figure out how to paint and mount everything professionally, but it was worth it and my first retrofit came out pretty good. You also retain the factory headlight adjustment with this retrofit. You can see the retrofit as my title picture up top.
Here's a picture of the second retrofit I completed for a FitFreak member.
Here's a picture of the second retrofit I completed for a FitFreak member.
The retrofit takes me two days to complete.
The first day, I take the headlights apart so I can modify the reflector bowl to house the FX35 projectors and I prep the headlight housing and reflector bowl for painting. Once all the cutting and sanding is done, I paint everything with at least 5-6 thin layers of paint waiting 15 minutes between each coat. I've been using the Semi-Gloss High Heat Duplicolor spray paint, but I can use any color and even match the reflector bowl to the original headlight housing/car color. After everything is painted, I let it dry over night so that I know the paint will not chip or flake in the future.
The second day, I go ahead and mount the projector into the reflector bowl and get it ready for cutoff adjustment. I have to take off my Fit's front bumper, disconnect my headlights, remove the headlights, and then mount the new retrofit on the car for cutoff adjustment. I do the adjustment at about 20ft away from the wall to make sure it is as acurate as possible. Once I am satisified, I remove the headlights and put my car back together and put the dog bowl shrouds on the projectors. Once that is done, I start putting the headlights back together. Before I put them back in the oven to seal up, I put a strip of OEM butyl sealant along the the whole edge of the lens of the headlight so that there are no worries of them ever fogging up. I've had my retrofit since October and I have had no fogging or any issues with the headlights.
I matched the retrofit up with an OEM FX35 HID kit and 5000K bulbs and the roads are so much brighter now. Once you got HID retrofit, you will never go back!
More pics coming soon!
DIY: Install K&N Air Filter Replacement for Honda Fit
DIY: Disclaimer
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To install it check out these installation instructions from K&N.http://www.kandn.com/instructions/33-2359.pdf
It takes 5 minute tops and that's including opening the box the K&N filter comes in. :)
You should also be able to use these instructions to install a OEM replacement air filter.
Check out my review on this product in the following link.
Review: K&N Air Filter Replacement for Honda Fit
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To install it check out these installation instructions from K&N.http://www.kandn.com/instructions/33-2359.pdf
It takes 5 minute tops and that's including opening the box the K&N filter comes in. :)
You should also be able to use these instructions to install a OEM replacement air filter.
Check out my review on this product in the following link.
Review: K&N Air Filter Replacement for Honda Fit
Review: K&N Air Filter Replacement for Honda Fit
I bought the K&N filter online at http://www.autoanything.com/ for $35 shipped. The part # for the 2007 Honda Fit is 33-2359. For more info on the filter here is the direct link to the K&N website. http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2359
Overall, I think it is a great replacement for the OEM air filter. You can also clean the air filter and reoil with the K&N Recharge Kit.
For instructions on how to install the air filter please follow this link.
DIY: Install K&N Air Filter Replacement for Honda Fit
Overall, I think it is a great replacement for the OEM air filter. You can also clean the air filter and reoil with the K&N Recharge Kit.
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
DIY: Install OEM Honda Fit Fog Lights on Base Model Fit
DIY: Disclaimer
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I really wanted more light since I drove a lot when it was dark out. The fog lights give you a wider view up close. The install was very straightforward and the most time consuming part was getting around under the dash to plug in the harnesses and finding the harnesses to plug into. It took me about 2 hours from beginning to end.
The fog lights came with instructions from Honda and also the template that I used to cut out the holes for the fog lights. You do need a drill, two drill bits (3mm and 5.5mm), a hack saw, ratchet wrench (8mm and 10mm), and some other tools. Follow the Honda instruction manual for the install. It will show you everything you need to know. The pictures I have posted just gives you a better visual of how things will look.
Here's a link to the installation instructions from http://www.handa-accessories.com/ website.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/fit/fog.pdf
Outline of the cutout and drilled a few starter holes.
How it looks like after you have made the cutout for the fog light to fit.
The work area.
Installation of the fog lights and running of the wiring harness.
Before
and after
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I really wanted more light since I drove a lot when it was dark out. The fog lights give you a wider view up close. The install was very straightforward and the most time consuming part was getting around under the dash to plug in the harnesses and finding the harnesses to plug into. It took me about 2 hours from beginning to end.
The fog lights came with instructions from Honda and also the template that I used to cut out the holes for the fog lights. You do need a drill, two drill bits (3mm and 5.5mm), a hack saw, ratchet wrench (8mm and 10mm), and some other tools. Follow the Honda instruction manual for the install. It will show you everything you need to know. The pictures I have posted just gives you a better visual of how things will look.
Here's a link to the installation instructions from http://www.handa-accessories.com/ website.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/fit/fog.pdf
Outline of the cutout and drilled a few starter holes.
How it looks like after you have made the cutout for the fog light to fit.
The work area.
Installation of the fog lights and running of the wiring harness.
Before
and after
Review: Progress Rear Swaybar for Honda Fit
After having upgraded to a 22mm ITR rear swaybar in my Integra in the past, I knew that a rear swaybar would be a beneficial modification to the Fit even though it already handled very well. Everyone on FitFreak.net also raved about it so I had to give it a shot as soon as possible.
I ordered from Progress Technology directly over the phone for $160 shipped and everything went smooth. I received my package on time and everything was packed very well.
All the installation hardware was included and the install was a breeze. The rear sway bar fit perfectly and this is my favorite suspension mod for performance. I definitely recommend this to any Fit owner and for $160 shipped it is a steal.
I also wrote a DIY to install this rear swaybar in the following link.
DIY: Install Progress Rear Swabar for Honda Fit
I ordered from Progress Technology directly over the phone for $160 shipped and everything went smooth. I received my package on time and everything was packed very well.
This is how I received it from Progress.
This is what was in the box.
All the installation hardware was included and the install was a breeze. The rear sway bar fit perfectly and this is my favorite suspension mod for performance. I definitely recommend this to any Fit owner and for $160 shipped it is a steal.
I also wrote a DIY to install this rear swaybar in the following link.
DIY: Install Progress Rear Swabar for Honda Fit
DIY: Install Progress Rear Swaybar for Honda Fit
DIY: Disclaimer
------------------------------------------------------
This is the best mods I have done to the Fit in terms of performance. It was just as good as when I upgraded my Integra to the 22mm ITR rear swaybar. The install is pretty easy and shouldn't take you more than an 45 minutes. I don't remember all the wrench sizes that I used, so I apologize about that. I did use red loctite for the nuts and bolts to make sure it doesn't come off in the future.
Here's a picture of what came in the package from Progress.
You need to take off the rear wheels first so you have more room to work with.
Then I jacked up the car with the 3 ton jack on the tow hook and placed two jack stands on the rear side jack points.
After that you need to take off the rear springs. It is held into this rubber piece to the metal bracket that it sits in. Once you get the spring out, you can see the mounting holes for the rear swaybar. You will use three on each side.
After that you tightened the bolts and nuts, go ahead and reinstall the rear springs. Put your wheels back on and lower the car back onto the ground. Don't forget to tighten your lug nuts and you are done! Take it for a spin.
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This is the best mods I have done to the Fit in terms of performance. It was just as good as when I upgraded my Integra to the 22mm ITR rear swaybar. The install is pretty easy and shouldn't take you more than an 45 minutes. I don't remember all the wrench sizes that I used, so I apologize about that. I did use red loctite for the nuts and bolts to make sure it doesn't come off in the future.
Here's a picture of what came in the package from Progress.
You need to take off the rear wheels first so you have more room to work with.
Then I jacked up the car with the 3 ton jack on the tow hook and placed two jack stands on the rear side jack points.
After that you need to take off the rear springs. It is held into this rubber piece to the metal bracket that it sits in. Once you get the spring out, you can see the mounting holes for the rear swaybar. You will use three on each side.
Insert the swaybar from the driver side to the passenger side. That seems to be the easiest way to get the swaybar in there.
Once you get it in there start with one side of the swaybar first and put the three bolts in from the top and then line up the swaybar to the bottom of it and put the washer and nuts on. Do not fully tighten it yet until you have both sides ready to be tightened. Do the same for the other side and then fully tighten all the nuts. I even used some red loctite, since I didn't want the swaybar to fall off one day.
Here's the passenger side of the rear swaybar installed.
Here's a picture of the driver side of the rear swaybar installed.
The swaybar is installed and all the bolts have been tightened.
After that you tightened the bolts and nuts, go ahead and reinstall the rear springs. Put your wheels back on and lower the car back onto the ground. Don't forget to tighten your lug nuts and you are done! Take it for a spin.
DIY: Install 6.5" Component Speakers using OEM Bracket
DIY: Disclaimer
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I tried to use the Metra 1" speaker spacer for 6.5" speakers but I could not get the door panel to fit back on because the 1" spacer was just too thick.
Instead of using the speaker spacer, I decide to trim the door panel interior with a dremel and cut out the stock speaker from the bracket with a box cutter and reuse the old bracket for the new components. This worked perfect for me and the door panel sits flush now.
Trimmed the speaker part of the door panel to fit the new 6.5" component speaker.
Trim off the same thickness as the lip on the component speaker.
Putting the OEM foam back on the trimmed speaker part of the door panel.
Zip ties holding the new 6.5" component speaker on the OEM bracket
Final results.
------------------------------------------------------
I tried to use the Metra 1" speaker spacer for 6.5" speakers but I could not get the door panel to fit back on because the 1" spacer was just too thick.
Instead of using the speaker spacer, I decide to trim the door panel interior with a dremel and cut out the stock speaker from the bracket with a box cutter and reuse the old bracket for the new components. This worked perfect for me and the door panel sits flush now.
Trimmed the speaker part of the door panel to fit the new 6.5" component speaker.
Trim off the same thickness as the lip on the component speaker.
Putting the OEM foam back on the trimmed speaker part of the door panel.
Zip ties holding the new 6.5" component speaker on the OEM bracket
Final results.
DIY: Install Sound Deadening/Proofing for Honda Fit
DIY: Disclaimer
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The eDead I bought on eBay from Elemental Designs, but you can get it cheaper from the actual website Elemental Designs and use the 20% off coupon that is floating around in their forums. It was about $65 shipped after the 20% off coupon for 60 sqft and I paid $70 for 60 sqft but also got a roller. You don't really need the roller, but it is nice to have.
The neoprene and adhesive spray I purchased from The Foam Factory. Here's a directly link Neoprene Sheets, Rubber, Poker Table Foam, Neoprene Pads. I got two rolls of the 72"x42" Neoprene High Quality 1/4" Thick. I paid $51 shipped for a total of 48 sqft of neoprene and one can of adhesive spray.
The 3M All-Weather Duct Tape cost less than $6 at your local autoparts store.
To make the job easier you may want some GooGone to take off the sticky mess that holds the plastic sheet to the door inbetween the door panel and the door. You also need some rubbing (denatured) alcohol to clean up the areas before applying the sound deadening. A measure tape, box cutter, and a wooden block also are helpful.
-------------------------------------------------
I put eDead V1.2 in the following areas.
- Single layer inside and outside (door panel side) of front doors.
- Single layer inside of rear doors and just covered up the holes on the outside part of the door (door panel side).
- Single layer in entire trunk plus a second layer over the areas that had OEM sound deadening.
- Single layer over rear wheel wells plus a second layer on the areas that hard OEM sound deadening.
I put a single layer of closed-cell neoprene in the following areas.
- All the door panels
- Trunk
- Rear wheel wells
I bought 60 sqft of eDead V1.2 and 48 sqft of neoprene and one can of adhesive spray. I have some eDead left just enough to finish the rear outside of the doors if I wanted to. I am guessing about 5 sqft left. I may use it to do the hatch door since it is small. I have at least 15 sqft of neoprene left and half a bottle of the adhesive spray. I also decided to buy some 3M All-Weather Duct Tape and make sure the eDead doesnt fall apart on me. lol I used up 3/4 of the roll.
---------------------------------------------------------
The tools and eDead I used to sound deaden the car. The only thing missing in this picture is the roll of neoprene.
How the OEM Sound Deadening looked like before I put the new sound deadening over it.
First layer of eDead. You can put down bigger sheets if you are comfortable doing so. If you have any bubbles you can poke a hole and squeeze the air out that way.
Finished up with the neoprene in the spare tire well and rear fender area.
eDeaded the inside and little on the outside of the rear door since I didn't buy enough to complete the rear doors.
Neoprened the rear door panel.
The door in stock form. I removed the plastic sound deadening and the grey goo with some GooGone and paper towels.
The door after I cleaned it with a layer of eDeaded inside the door.
Pic of the holes I cut after laying down the eDead. It was easy to do it this way.
eDead completed inside/out
Neoprened the front door panel.
The amount of eDead I put down and neoprene was pretty good in terms getting all the parts to fit back on properly. In the rear I had some trouble securing the plastic back down since it was so much thicker with the eDead and neoprene layer, but it went in with some work and fits very snuggly.
I am pretty satisifed with the noise level in the car now. If I were to do any more sound deadening, I would do the firewall and probably add more neoprene to the rear area of the wall.
------------------------------------------------------
The eDead I bought on eBay from Elemental Designs, but you can get it cheaper from the actual website Elemental Designs and use the 20% off coupon that is floating around in their forums. It was about $65 shipped after the 20% off coupon for 60 sqft and I paid $70 for 60 sqft but also got a roller. You don't really need the roller, but it is nice to have.
The neoprene and adhesive spray I purchased from The Foam Factory. Here's a directly link Neoprene Sheets, Rubber, Poker Table Foam, Neoprene Pads. I got two rolls of the 72"x42" Neoprene High Quality 1/4" Thick. I paid $51 shipped for a total of 48 sqft of neoprene and one can of adhesive spray.
The 3M All-Weather Duct Tape cost less than $6 at your local autoparts store.
To make the job easier you may want some GooGone to take off the sticky mess that holds the plastic sheet to the door inbetween the door panel and the door. You also need some rubbing (denatured) alcohol to clean up the areas before applying the sound deadening. A measure tape, box cutter, and a wooden block also are helpful.
-------------------------------------------------
I put eDead V1.2 in the following areas.
- Single layer inside and outside (door panel side) of front doors.
- Single layer inside of rear doors and just covered up the holes on the outside part of the door (door panel side).
- Single layer in entire trunk plus a second layer over the areas that had OEM sound deadening.
- Single layer over rear wheel wells plus a second layer on the areas that hard OEM sound deadening.
I put a single layer of closed-cell neoprene in the following areas.
- All the door panels
- Trunk
- Rear wheel wells
I bought 60 sqft of eDead V1.2 and 48 sqft of neoprene and one can of adhesive spray. I have some eDead left just enough to finish the rear outside of the doors if I wanted to. I am guessing about 5 sqft left. I may use it to do the hatch door since it is small. I have at least 15 sqft of neoprene left and half a bottle of the adhesive spray. I also decided to buy some 3M All-Weather Duct Tape and make sure the eDead doesnt fall apart on me. lol I used up 3/4 of the roll.
---------------------------------------------------------
The tools and eDead I used to sound deaden the car. The only thing missing in this picture is the roll of neoprene.
How the OEM Sound Deadening looked like before I put the new sound deadening over it.
First layer of eDead. You can put down bigger sheets if you are comfortable doing so. If you have any bubbles you can poke a hole and squeeze the air out that way.
Finished up with the neoprene in the spare tire well and rear fender area.
eDeaded the inside and little on the outside of the rear door since I didn't buy enough to complete the rear doors.
Neoprened the rear door panel.
The door in stock form. I removed the plastic sound deadening and the grey goo with some GooGone and paper towels.
The door after I cleaned it with a layer of eDeaded inside the door.
Pic of the holes I cut after laying down the eDead. It was easy to do it this way.
eDead completed inside/out
Neoprened the front door panel.
The amount of eDead I put down and neoprene was pretty good in terms getting all the parts to fit back on properly. In the rear I had some trouble securing the plastic back down since it was so much thicker with the eDead and neoprene layer, but it went in with some work and fits very snuggly.
I am pretty satisifed with the noise level in the car now. If I were to do any more sound deadening, I would do the firewall and probably add more neoprene to the rear area of the wall.
DIY: Putting the Honda Fit Headlights Back Together
DIY: Disclaimer
If you need instructions on how to take apart the headlight first please go to this link.
DIY: Taking the Honda Fit Headlights Apart
If you need instructions on how to paint the headlights please go to this link.
DIY: Painting the Honda Fit Headlights
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You need to reassembled the painted plastic cover and the lens of the headlight.
Do the reverse from DIY: Painting The Honda Fit Headlights
I ordered this butyl sealant for tail lights from the Nissan dealer. You can see the part number in the picture if you want to order it. Claymore from FitFreak.net also shined some light on this butyl sealant and you can get it from the autoparts store. It's the window sealant, which is also butyl based. This is the same stuff that is use as sealant in the OEM Honda Fit headlights.
I dont know if you can tell, but I put a thin strip all around the crack where the butyl should go before I put the headlight back together and in the oven.
After I preheated the oven to 200C and turned it off, I assembled the headlight back together as best as I could for now and placed it inside the oven for 10 minutes. After that I took it out and just pressed it back into the crack and slipped the plastic clips back into their places. AGAIN, your oven may vary from my oven so check it in 5 minutes and see if any plastic is melting.
After all is pressed back together, put the three screws back into the back of the headlight.
Here's a pic of a completed vs incompleted headlight.
If you need instructions on how to take apart the headlight first please go to this link.
DIY: Taking the Honda Fit Headlights Apart
If you need instructions on how to paint the headlights please go to this link.
DIY: Painting the Honda Fit Headlights
---------------------------------------------------------
You need to reassembled the painted plastic cover and the lens of the headlight.
Do the reverse from DIY: Painting The Honda Fit Headlights
I ordered this butyl sealant for tail lights from the Nissan dealer. You can see the part number in the picture if you want to order it. Claymore from FitFreak.net also shined some light on this butyl sealant and you can get it from the autoparts store. It's the window sealant, which is also butyl based. This is the same stuff that is use as sealant in the OEM Honda Fit headlights.
I just found out from Earthmover84 on FitFreak.net more details on the butyl sealant at the car store.
- "you can put on your DIY that 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer works to, just got some. it does contain polybutylene, and butyl. thought i might let you know. AutoZone and Advanced Autoparts both carry it. part number 051135 08612"
I dont know if you can tell, but I put a thin strip all around the crack where the butyl should go before I put the headlight back together and in the oven.
After I preheated the oven to 200C and turned it off, I assembled the headlight back together as best as I could for now and placed it inside the oven for 10 minutes. After that I took it out and just pressed it back into the crack and slipped the plastic clips back into their places. AGAIN, your oven may vary from my oven so check it in 5 minutes and see if any plastic is melting.
After all is pressed back together, put the three screws back into the back of the headlight.
Here's a pic of a completed vs incompleted headlight.
DIY: Painting the Honda Fit Headlights
DIY: Disclaimer
If you need instructions on how to take apart the headlight first please go to this link.
DIY: Taking the Honda Fit Headlights Apart
---------------------------------------------------------
Here's a picture so you get an idea of how the Honda Fit headlight looks when disassembled.
After the headlight is apart you need to take off the two screws that hold the painted plastic cover to the lens of the headlight. Then pop off the amber reflector and the clear running light cover. Be careful not to break the tabs on these.
I used VHT Nite-Shades spray paint to smoke the amber reflector and running light cover. I prepped them by taping up the areas I did not want any paint on and cleaned the surface that would be painted with some alcohol to make sure I got all my grease finger prints off. I then did three light coats of the smoke spray and it came out pretty good.
I used some Bond Aid spray paint that I had left over and Duplicolor Engine Enamel Semi-Gloss Black DE1635 to paint the colored plastic headlight covers. I also cleaned them with some alcohol and covered the running light area with painters tape. I sprayed a light coat of bond aid before spray painting. I did five light coats so there were no runs.
I recommend letting it dry overnight before putting it all back together.
If you need instructions on how to put the headlight back together please follow this link.
DIY: Putting the Honda Fit Headlights Back Together
If you need instructions on how to take apart the headlight first please go to this link.
DIY: Taking the Honda Fit Headlights Apart
---------------------------------------------------------
Here's a picture so you get an idea of how the Honda Fit headlight looks when disassembled.
After the headlight is apart you need to take off the two screws that hold the painted plastic cover to the lens of the headlight. Then pop off the amber reflector and the clear running light cover. Be careful not to break the tabs on these.
I used VHT Nite-Shades spray paint to smoke the amber reflector and running light cover. I prepped them by taping up the areas I did not want any paint on and cleaned the surface that would be painted with some alcohol to make sure I got all my grease finger prints off. I then did three light coats of the smoke spray and it came out pretty good.
I used some Bond Aid spray paint that I had left over and Duplicolor Engine Enamel Semi-Gloss Black DE1635 to paint the colored plastic headlight covers. I also cleaned them with some alcohol and covered the running light area with painters tape. I sprayed a light coat of bond aid before spray painting. I did five light coats so there were no runs.
I recommend letting it dry overnight before putting it all back together.
If you need instructions on how to put the headlight back together please follow this link.
DIY: Putting the Honda Fit Headlights Back Together
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